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Workshop manuals are outdated. A kind of

I don't key for others. First of all, I am no more than a well-meaning amateur - with half a century of key and improvisation experience, that's for sure - but you shouldn't get in the way of professionals.


And then an acquaintance arrived who had his classic car given a major overhaul at his local village garage. His car was not running smoothly… 'Village garages' or 'universal', non-branded garages are usually a good and affordable alternative to official brand dealers after the warranty period of a car. From my own experience I dare to say that the mechanics of universals are often just a bit - or much - sharper than brand mechanics of recent cars. They often think more technically without relying solely on their diagnostic equipment.

But all over the garage world, the truly old-fashioned craftsmanship is disappearing. At the company where my acquaintance had had his car done, they worked well. And everything was set by the book. However, those adjustment data were all 'ex works' when petrol was still just petrol instead of excise duty diluted with alcohol. And that made the story clear because it has been known in classic circles for some time: That stuff you now throw in your tank is no longer a tiger. But a fat, cut tomcat, staggering in the windowsill above the central heating radiator. But the classic still did not go well.

Bio-ethanol is alcohol made from plant residues

This helps to reduce CO2 emissions, because plants remove CO2 from the air and this creates a CO2-neutral cycle when you use it as fuel. The jump from 5% to 10% bioethanol would reduce emissions by 2%.

Ethanol is actually not a bad motor fuel at all.

Every sprinter or drag racer knows that. If you were to use a modified engine for it, you could choose a higher compression ratio. That would give more power and / or a lower fuel consumption. Nice is not it? Little feasible in our classics.
Ethanol contains less energy than petrol. If you were driving on pure ethanol, you would have to add 1,5 times as much for the same energy value. The problem is of course smaller with 'only' 10% admixture of ethanol with petrol. And a modern, smart injection engine can adjust that, but if you inject more, the fuel consumption just goes up.

The problem is bigger with carburettor engines: they have to make do with what they swallow

As a result, they can get a mixture that is too lean, especially with the latest generation of carburettors, which are already very poorly adjusted due to emission requirements. As a result, they generate more heat, they lose power, so that you give more gas and therefore they use even more. Because you just have to try everything, I refueled E10 in classics. Measured over the wet finger, this resulted in a 15-20% higher consumption. While the engines also ran noticeably rougher. Ethanol is also quite aggressive and corrosive. It attacks some rubbers, polyester, fiberglass and certain aluminum alloys. This therefore causes problems if the fuel system is made of these types of materials.

In addition, the flame or explosion character is also different, so that with E10 refueling your ignition 'goes wrong.'

An old-fashioned mechanic has adjusted the classic of my knowledge not by the book, but by feeling. And when the owner subsequently refueled 102 octane in Germany, he thought he had a completely different engine.

A WPHB as a guideline

Workshop manuals and the like are indispensable for people who tinker. But some of the things in it have become obsolete over time. And then you just need old-fashioned craftsmanship (and a multi-gas meter).

The factory values ​​may no longer be correct


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This was once high tech ...

3 Comments

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  1. I live in the Philippines and have a Volvo rider, there I have a b20E engine with carburettors and a Simons exhaust.
    I've been driving that car here for ten years and can't get more than EURO95 with 10% ethanol, but that petrol has also changed in the last 10 years.
    I now have to do the last modification to not get a vaporlock (which I have every now and then) and that's Bakelite pieces between the carburettors.
    I have also rerouted the pipes outside the engine compartment.
    So it could be a classic on EURO95, but you have to do something for it.
    The trick is to keep the carburettors and the supply of petrol cool.

    Johan

  2. Yes, all true. I always fill up with the more expensive petrol variant (usually V-power, because it is the closest), add a little lead substitute and it drives fine. Perhaps not like before on that delicious Chateauneuf Supèrbenzinuh, but acceptable.

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